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Please refresh the page and retry. The Romans were the first to be drawn to the springs in the foothills of the Black Forest, but it was in the 19th century that Baden-Baden began to establish itself as an elegant social playground.
Even the dogs being walked through its leafy gardens are well-groomed. In the s its admirers were attracted by the chance to rejuvenate, recuperate or flirt with ruin on the roulette wheel. During the World Cup, it was the turn of the WAGs, the wives and girlfriends of the England players, to come here to shop and be noticed. The city is compact and was unscathed by Allied bombers during the Second World War. With its rose garden, this strip of English-style park is filled with trees from as far afield as South America and Japan.
I walk past the Baden-Baden tennis club, the oldest in Germany, dating from On the way back into the town centre, I pass horse-drawn carriages in the park before I duck inside the imaginatively designed Museum Frieder Burda.
I am here during one of the horse-racing weeks and the place hums with life. Nearby is the impressive colonnade of the Trinkhalle, where I try the reputedly restorative waters. To the north of the altstadt, the palatial neo-Renaissance spa house Friedrichsbad stands out. It has been a temple of well-being since , where bathers immerse themselves in the curative mineral-rich waters sought after for curing respiratory and cardiovascular problems.
After supper at the Stahlbad restaurant perch with sour cabbage and a glass of riesling , I make for the casino, suitably fortified, and try my luck with roulette and, for once, my number comes up — lucky The following day I prepare for the races with a ride on the funicular up Merkur mountain, the highest in the area and with great views of the Black Forest. At the races the quality may not resemble Ascot but there are several good finishes and the atmosphere is a lot less class conscious.